Kang Guru. Our expedition was composed of Domenico Bidese, Imerio Dal Santo, Paolo Ghitti, Fiorenzo Pagiusco and me as leader. On October 4, we established Base Camp at Meta, a deserted village at 3600 meters at the foot of the mountain. We placed Camp I on the 7th at 4900 meters below a rock wall which seals off the valley. On October 12, we climbed the wall up a steep couloir to place Camp II at 5600 meters. Camp III was set up at 6100 meters at the foot of the northwest ridge on October 20. On October 21, Bidese, Ghitti, Pagiusco, Ang Dawa Tamang, Lhakpa Tamang and I climbed a steep ice spur for 400 meters to join the sharp, corniced northwest ridge and reached the summit (6981 meters, 22,904 feet). This was the German first-ascent route.

Giancarlo Contalbrigo, Club Alpino Italiano