American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Numbur

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Numbur. Helmut Muller and I traveled to Jiri by bus and then made a seven-day approach via Junbesi, Basa Drangka, over a 4352-meter pass to the Dudhkunda Khola. We set up Base Camp on October 10 at 4600 meters at Yüligolcha, a little lake on the west side of the Dudh Kund Glacier. From Base Camp we climbed grass slopes and scree to a col to rejoin the glacier at 5200 meters. We followed the glacier to its western top and placed Camp I at 5450 meters on October 28. We ascended a snow-covered rock spur which climbed westward to join the southwest ridge, the normal route on the mountain, at 5800 meters. On November 6, we climbed this spur and placed Camp II at 6000 meters just below a steep step on the ridge. On November 7, Muller and I climbed a 45° ice slope to easier terrain and the summit (6957 meters, 22,824 feet).

Mathias Rau, Deutscher Alpenverein

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