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Asia, Nepal, Everest, Southwest Face Attempt

Everest, Southwest Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Chung Woo-Sub, Nam Sun-Woo, Heo Jeong-Sik, Jung Gwang-Sig, Choi Tae-Sik, Cho Kwang-Je, Lee Sang-Lock, Park Young-Seok, Kim Jin-Sung, Koo Kyeong-Mo, Kim Seok-Jun and me as leader. We attempted Bonington’s route on the southwest face. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and IV at 5400, 6050,6450,6920 and 7600 meters on March 31, April 5,7,17 and 23. Camp IV had two box tents. On April 28, we fixed rope to 8300 meters where we hoped to pitch Camp V with one small bivouac tent. On May 1, Nam Sun-Woo, Kim Jin-Sung and sirdar Ang Tshering pushed up to the Camp V site, where they could see the south summit across the rock band and the refuse from previous expeditions around the site. There was not enough snow on which to pitch the tent. After the sirdar descended, the two Koreans bivouacked sitting up in the fortunately not too cold night. On May 2, Nam tried to climb the rock band, but after only 50 meters he found it impossible. Three centimeters (1¼ inches) of new snow made it impossible to ascend the rock and the snow was too thin for crampons. On May 3, I gave up the expedition because the snow would not easily have blown away or melted at that altitude. We had an accident. On April 14, Park slipped and fell 100 meters at 7000 meters. Fortunately, his injuries could be treated by American Dr. Michael Sinclair before he was carried to Base Camp in a stretcher we borrowed from his American team, for which we were very grateful.

Lee Kang-Oh, Seoul, South Korea