American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Chamlang

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Chamlang. Our team consisted of Andrew Knight and me as joint leaders, Neil Howells, Angus Andrew, Annette Carmichael, David Gwynne-Jones, Peter Pollard, Dr. Carolyn Knight, and scientists David Collier and Richard Hancock. We set up Base Camp on October 2 by the Hongu Khola at 4700 meters. The route was a variation on the original 1962 Japanese ascent; the Japanese started further north, avoiding what was the crux of the climb for us: two rock towers at the start of the ridge. Advance Base was established on the 8th at 5170 meters on the moraine of a glacier flowing from the south end of the south ridge. Camp I was placed at the top of the glacier at 5740 meters on October 9. Six days were spent climbing the two rock towers and rope was fixed. Camp II was made on the 15th at 6280 meters on the crest of the south ridge. From there, we climbed alpine-style. Howells, Andrew, Ngatemba Sherpa and I bivouacked at 6840 meters and reached the summit (7319 meters, 24,012 feet) on October 20. Above Camp II there was much unconsolidated snow on knife-edged ridges. A rock band at 6500 meters slowed progress.

Andrew Pollard, Alpine Club

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.