American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt and Kangchungste Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Makalu Attempt and Kangchungtse Ascent. Our expedition was made up of Maurice and Marc van der Berge, Wim Willekens, Michel Schuitemaker, Dr. Frank Hoppenbrouwer and me as leader. We hoped to climb the northwest ridge of Makalu by the standard route. We got to Base Camp at 5350 meters on April 5 and established Camps I and II at 6000 and 6700 meters on April 7 and 10. More serious climbing started there as we ascended the Makalu couloir; we fixed rope on 90% of this part and so did not make a supply dump at Camp III until April 18. We occupied Camp III at 7400 meters on April 27. Because it was obvious due to snow conditions that Makalu would be a dangerous objective, we decided to climb Kangchungtse. On April 29, Willekens and I set out late, at 10:15 A.M., because of bad weather and a faulty stove, and reached the summit (7678 meters, 25,190 feet) at one P.M. By May 1, all members were safely back at Base Camp.

RenÉ de Bos, Koninklijke Nederlandse Alpen Vereniging

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.