American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

The Mountaineers

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  • Publication Year: 1992

Yalung Kang, Southwest Face Attempt. Our international expedition was composed of Czechoslovaks Leopold Sulovský, Miss Zdenka Pleskotová and me as leader and Italians Marco Berti, Gianluigi Visentin and Miss Dr. Monica Zambon. We had no high-altitude porters and used no supplementary oxygen. We left Kathmandu on September 2 and got to Base Camp at 5300 meters on the 16th. We established Camps I, II and III at 6100, 6700 and 7400 meters on September 23, 27 and 29. After a rest, Sulovský and Visentin got to Camp III on October 8. The next day Sulovský alone climbed a steep couloir and pitched Camp IV at 7950 meters. During the night, the tent was destroyed by a strong wind. On October 10, he climbed to 8200 meters, which he reached at eleven A.M. He decided not to climb further. Climbing slowly because of the conditions, he figured that he could not climb to the summit and descend to Camp III past wrecked Camp IV and survive without bivouac gear. He was back in Base Camp on the 11th.

JiRÍ NovÁk, Czechoslovakia

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