AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Tierra del Fuego, Monte Cloven, Hoste Island, 1989-90

Monte Cloven, Hoste Island, 1989-90. A four-man American-Canadian expedition, T.J. Thomas, Doug Krause, Steve Gayner and I, made the first exploration and ascents on the uninhabited and unexplored Hoste Island. The trip took place in December, 1989 and January, 1990. Base Camp was at sea level on Fromunda Bay at the tongue of the main glacier. We persevered despite violent winds, poor snow conditions and endless rainfall. Our first climb was of P 1120 (3675 feet) where we followed the southwest ridge to the summit. The second climb was of Monte Cloven (1340 meters, 4397 feet), the highest on the island. We had ascended an icefall and then a steep couloir to camp on a rocky ridge. Three days later, on December 28, 1989, we had one of the few clear days in the region. After crossing the plateau, we climbed the west ridge to the summit. From the summit we could see Cape Horn. Due to poor weather and conditions, we were limited to non-technical ascents. There are great possibilities for technical ascents on fantastic granite spires. The only problem is the weather, which is so bad that it makes Patagonia look like Hawaii.

Brad Wrobleski, Canada