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South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Aguja Guillaument West Face, Solo, 1990

Aguja Guillaumet West Face, Solo, 1990. With my wife Rosanna, I arrived on November 24, 1990 at Base Camp at Piedra del Fraile. I wanted to climb the west face of Agjua Guillaumet over a new route for the first 600 meters where I planned to join the Argentine route. On December 7, 1990, Rosanna accompanied me to the foot of the face. I planned to climb fast against a possible worsening of the weather and so climbed primarily not self-belayed. I did have five pitons, some Friends, a 90-meter rope for rappelling, crampons and ice axe, for despite the smooth rock, the final part might have ice. I took no bivouac gear, counting on climbing through the night, which at that latitude is very short. At five P.M., after seven hours of climbing, I had ascended the 1100 vertical meters, 600 meters of which were new with an UIAA difficulty of VI+, A2. I descended with 20 rappels in deteriorating weather.

Maurizio Giordani, Club Alpino Italiano