American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Cordilleras Real and Quimsa Cruz, 1990

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1992

Cordilleras Real and Quimsa Cruz, 1990. Neil Howell and I arrived at Mina La Argentina on the eastern side of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz in the third week of June, 1990. Despite bad weather and intense cold, we managed to make the first ascent of the south face of Nevado Nina Collo (5280 meters, 17,323 feet). We then crossed the Paso San Enrique to the Chatamarca Lake basin. We climbed Cerro Chamac Collo (c. 5350 meters, 17,553 feet) by its northeast face and descended the west gully. This rock peak lies in the southwest corner of the basin. Marching along the west shore of the lake, we saw a magnificent rock climb with a chess knight-piece summit. The protruding pinnacle belongs to the east side of the Cerro Chamacani, which is a long ridge with many spikes. We climbed it by a crack straight up the east side. After reaching the Viloco and Araca valleys, we ascended between July 10 and 15, 1990 the following: First Wall (4700 meters, 15,420 feet) (See map on page 167 of AAJ 1988), fourth ascent; “The Lookout,” a small pinnacle left of the Big Wall, and “La Astilla,” a granite finger, both first ascents; a peak west of Lake Chilihuani Khota and “Ridge Peak,” west of the former, the last two second ascents and probably new routes. Later, after several attempts, we managed to climb free the right of the central side of the north face of the Big Wall (4890 meters, 16,044 feet). We then went to the Cordillera Real. After an ascent of Huayna Potosí, Howell left for England. I then teamed up with Argentines Federico Chippitelli and Antonio Rodriguez. We made a new route on the south face of Tiquimani (5519 meters, 18,108 feet), where we climbed a steep gully and ridge to the summit. It involved four days and three bivouacs, a challenging and cold route. We got to the summit on August 11, 1990.

Angus Andrew, Castlefields, Shrewsbury, England

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