American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Illampu West Face, Three Routes and Other Climbs

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Illampu West Face, Three Routes and Other Climbs. On June 25, Miha Vreca and Marko Vrevc climbed a new route on the west face of Illampu Norte (6342 meters, 20,798 feet). This is Number 1 on the accompanying drawing. They rated it UIAA VI—, 85°, AO. The 900-meter-high climb took twelve hours to complete. On June 28, Matjaž Jamnik and Miha Kajzelj climbed a new route on the right side of the west face of Illampu Sur (6368 meters, 20,891 feet). They first tried unsuccessfully on June 24. They rated the climb UIAA VI+, 75°. The 850-meter-high climb took them 20 hours. This is shown in the drawing as Number 2. From April 25 to 27, Dušan Debelak and Tomaž Žerovnik climbed a new route on the same face, shown as Number 3. The 1000-meter-high climb took them 30 hours of climbing over the three days. They rated the climb as UIAA VII—, 90°, A3. Bolivian climbers estimated the route as the most difficult in this part of the Andes. Other Slovene climbers made ascents, which were probably not new. Three women, Tatjana Cerar, Simona Košir and Nataša Pristov, climbed Mururata on June 20 and Huayna Potosí on July 5. Matjaž Jamnik and Marko Vrenc climbed a route in the center of the west face of Huayna Potosí, which probably followed one of the previously ascended routes.

Franci Savenc, Planinska zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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