AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Peru-Cordillera Blanca, Huascará Sur, North Face

Huascarán Sur, North Face. In 1990 after my solo ascent of the Richey- Brewer route on Chacraraju, I tried to climb an obvious line on the north face of Huascarán Sur, but was driven back by dangerous falling ice and rockfall. In 1991, it was colder and so I tried again, although the conditions were really not good. On July 13,1 crossed the dangerous glacier below the face and ascended 300 meters. I ascended the couloir to the left of the 1984 French Benoît-Grison route. On the 14th, I joined the French route at 6100 meters. In changeable weather, I descended the French route. I rate my route as V, 60° to 65°.

Pavle Kozjek, Planinska zveza Slovenije