American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Nunavut, Canadian Arctic, Tirokwa, Bilbo, Asgard, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Tirokwa, Bilbo, Asgard, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. From June 20 to July 29, Nicholas D. Wood, Jonathan Ison, Ian Marriot, Sean Walsh and I took part in the Leeds Baffin Island Expedition. We centered around Summit Lake. To reach there, we took skidoos up the frozen Pangnirtung Fiord. This was followed by numerous load carries. On June 28 Ison, Wood and Marriot pioneered a route on the west face of Mount Tirokwa, up a 3500-foot-high obvious comer gully. The bottom two-thirds was on good 5.6 to 5.7 rock. Then loose, broken ground gave way to a snow-filled gully that led to the top. On July 3, Wood, Ison and I made the first ascent of the central buttress on the south face of Mount Bilbo, some 25 pitches of 5.6 and 5.7. The top three pitches were very icy. On July 7, Wood, Marriot and Ison climbed the Swiss route on Asgard (5.4 to 5.5). We also attempted the north face of Breidablik, the southeast ridge of Adluk and a route on Loki but were turned back by a combination of bad weather and ill health.

Nicholas J. Phillips, Leeds University Mountaineering Club, England

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