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North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Alberta, Northeast Ridge

Mount Alberta, Northeast Ridge. During the first week of August, Jack Lewis and I climbed the northeast ridge of Mount Alberta. We bivouacked the first night at the base of the upper black band, the second on an airy site on the knife-edged cornice just below the summit and descended the Japanese route on the third day. The rock was loose. We climbed two pitches of 5.10 with a lot of moderate 5th class and mixed. The snow at the top proved to be the scariest part of the route, although both ropes got chopped on the Japanese descent.

Thomas Kimbrell, Winthrop Mountain Sports