American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges of British Columbia, Middle Scottish Peak, East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Middle Scottish Peak, East Face. From the setting, rock and quality, this 5.6 climb deserves mention. From the North Star Glacier, the east face rises as a smooth slab. We climbed a pitch up the right side of the face to a prominent ledge, moved 100 feet to the left to an obvious crack and climbed to the summit. These top three pitches were unusual in that every move was 5.6, nothing harder, nothing easier. Protection was poor where the crack sealed off into a seam, but it would be hard to find a better climb at that grade. (II, 5.6.)

Jon Turk, Unaffiliated

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