American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming–Wind River Range, Little El Capitan, Southern Wind River Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Little El Capitan, Southern Wind River Range. In August, Jeff Alzner and I hiked 16 miles to climb a half dome marked on the map as Little El Capitan. The first day, we free-climbed two 5.10 pitches, fixed two ropes and rappelled off. The next day, we free-climbed toward the top. The crack ran out one pitch from the top and, lacking a bolt kit, we rappelled off. After another bivouac at the base, we chose another line, left of the first attempt. We ascended 350 feet of strenuous climbing, fixed our ropes and bivouacked again at the tarn. On the fifth day, we free-climbed 5.10 until we were benighted at 13,000 feet. We wedged ourselves into coffin-shaped cracks. In the morning, Jeff bolted the 95° off- width crack above and then free-climbed the triple visor to the summit. (V, 5.10, A2.)

Robert McGown

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