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North America, United States, Wyoming–Wind River Range, Square Top Mountain 1990

Square Top Mountain 1990. Doug Colwell and I climbed an excellent new 17-pitch route (V, 5. 10d) on the east face of Square Top Mountain in September, 1990. We began by scrambling up a series of obvious ramps to an intersection with the main crack system that splits the lower quarter of the east face. We then climbed three 5.5 to 5.8 pitches up the crack system to a grassy ridge. We traversed the ledge 300 feet left to the base of the lower right-facing dihedral marked by a fixed pin. Beginning at the dihedral, we followed the comer system by climbing a 5.10 face pitch with sketchy protection and two more 5.10 crack pitches that led to a large ramp. We traversed the ramp left for 165 feet to a semi-comfortable bivouac. The next morning, we climbed a 5.8 pitch a short distance up the face and left to a small ramp. We continued up another 5.8 pitch that followed the ramp left to a small steep seam. We then climbed the 5.10d crux pitch, placing limited but good protection. We next moved right and ascended a 5.7 slab to a prominent ledge, followed a 5.6 ramp to a second comer on the southwest and climbed straight up the comer system through a 5.9 chimney. We continued up a 5.7 crack to a belay at the right of the big roof, stepped left on small 5.10 holds that led to easier climbing and a big ledge and finally finished with a short 5.2 pitch to the expansive moonscape that forms the summit of Square Top.

Douglas Abromeit