American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Canyonlands National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Canyonlands National Park. The Monument Basin Towers are located off the White Rim of the park. A number of climbs were made there. Staggering Rock (IV, 5.9, A3, 3 pitches) by Strappo and Crusher; The Meemohive (IV, 5.9+, A2,4 pitches) by Crusher solo; Shark’s Fin, west ridge, Fetish Arête (IV, 5.10, A2, 4 pitches) by Rob Slater, Jim Bodenhamer, Tom Cotter. This was the third ascent of the tower and the second route. On Enigmatic Syringe, Altered Sanity (III, A3, 2 pitches) by Strappo solo. In the region of Moses in Taylor Canyon, the west ridge of Aphrodite, Swedish-American Route (III, 5.9, A2, 6 pitches) was climbed by Anders Bergwall, Anders Swensson and Ed Webster. Jim Beyer, solo, climbed a line on Moses between the Primrose Dihedrals and Desert Prophet. This IV, 5.9, A3 ascent used no bolts and was the fifth route to the summit of the tower. Later in the year, Webster soloed Beyer’s climb (adding bolts at belay stations), making the second solo and the second ascent of the difficult route. On the approach to Taylor Canyon, Bret Ruckman and Marco Cornacchino freed A Circle of Quiet at 5.11d, a route they had pioneered in 1988. In the Needles area, Angel Arch received its first ascent by Steve Anderton, Mike Colacino, Bill Duncan and Paul Midkiff (III, 5.10+, A2). It is a climb frowned upon by the Park Service and if done would call for a stiff fine. The ascent is documented here for historic record, but repeat ascents are discouraged.

Eric Bjørnstad

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