American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, Sierra Nevada Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Sierra Nevada Ascents. By the time you read this, a new Sierra Nevada Climber’s Guide will have appeared, authored by R.J. Secor and published by The Mountaineers. The following is a list of previously unreported Sierra Nevada routes that arrived too late for publication and will not be given in the new guide. These reports were submitted by Claude Fiddler, Bart O’Brien and Sam Roberts. Wheel Mountain, Southeast Arête: This is a pinnacled ridge. FA (first ascent) by Sam Roberts, Brian West, August 1977 (II, 5.4). Stonehouse Buttress, “Rots of Rock:” This route begins right of Milky Way and passes through an area of very loose rock. FA by Sam Roberts, Mark Bowling, April 1987 (IV, 5.9, A2). The Miter, North Ridge: FA by Claude Fiddler, Vern Clevenger, September 1979 (Class 5). Mount Muir, East Buttress Direct: By staying on the prow of this buttress, a fine route can be completed. FA by Claude and Nancy Fiddler, 1980 (III, 5.9). Mount Hale, West Face: Follow a gully and face ending a few feet from the summit. FA by Claude Fiddler, Bob McGayren, Danny Whitmore, September 1991 (II, 5.8). Mount Barnard, North Face: Follow a rib directly to the summit. FA by Claude and Nancy Fiddler, July 1986 (III, 5.8). Mount Williamson, “The Long Twisting Rib:” As seen from Highway 395, this climb from Williamson Creek leads to Williamson’s satellite summits. FA by Claude Fiddler, Jim Keating (III, Class 5). Vandever Mountain, North Face: FA by Claude and Nancy Fiddler, August 1985 (II, 5.6). Needham Mountain, North Face: FA by Claude and Nancy Fiddler, August 1985 (III, 5.6). P 11,861, “The Wall above Big Five:” This peak is 1.5 miles northeast of Needham Mountain. Climb a crack system up the center of the face for 17 pitches. A committing route. FA by Claude and Nancy Fiddler (V, 5.11). “Two Fingers Peak,” Northeast Ridge: This is listed as being 1.3 miles northeast of Needham Mountain in the Roper guide. The route is a traverse from P 11,861. FA by Claude and Nancy Fiddler (Class 3). P 11,772, Northwest Ridge: Roperlists this as 1.2 miles north-northwest of Needham Mountain. From Cyclamen Pass, follow the ridge to the summit. A rope was thrown over the true summit and handwalked to the top by Claude Fiddler, who left a small stopper for a rappel. FA by Fiddler, August 1985 (Class 5, A0). Lippincott Mountain, North Face: Follow a crack system in the center of the face. Excellent climbing on superb rock. FA by Claude and Nancy Fiddler, August 1985 (III, 5.10). Mount Chamberlain, Northeast Face: This route is about 200 meters left of the West Pillar Route (Rowell-Farrell). Follow the crack systems leading directly to the summit. Fiddler says this is the finest wall he has climbed in the High Sierra. FA by Claude Fiddler, Bob Harrington, 1980 (V, 5.10, A2). P 13,920+, East Ridge Direct: This peak is 0.6 miles west of Mount Russell. This route follows the ridge from Russell. Roper describes this as being Class 3, but that means dropping well off the ridge when difficulties are encountered. By staying directly on the ridge, an airy traverse can be had. FA by Claude Fiddler, Vern Clevenger, September 1979 (II, 5.6). “Mount Carl Heller,"”West Rib Center: This is a proposed name for P 13,211, southeast of Vacation Pass in the Roper guide. It has also been called “Vacation Peak.” Climb the southernmost arête on the west face, which leads directly to the summit. FA by Claude Fiddler, Vern Clevenger (II, 5.6). “Mount Carl Heller,” West Rib North: Follow the prominent rib on the north side of the west face. Both this and the previous route are excellent climbs. FA by Claude Fiddler, Vern Clevenger, Bob Harrington, 1984 (II, 5.9). Eagle Scout Peak, North Face: Many possible routes. FA by Claude Fiddler, Vern Clevenger, August 1985 (II, 5.6). Koontz Pinnacle, East Face: Not recommended: loose rock. FA by Claude and Nancy Fiddler (IV, 5.9). Second Kaweah, East Spur: A loose, undesirable climb. FA by Claude and Nancy Fiddler, August 1985 (IV, 5.9). P 13,520+, Northeast Ridge: [Probably the flat-summited peak 0.5 miles southeast of Milestone Mountain — Editor.] FA by Claude and Nancy Fiddler, Dieter King (Class 3 or 4). Ericsson Crags, Traverse from 1A to 3. Crag 1A shares a notch with Mount Ericsson. The western gully to this notch is a good route. About 100 meters below the notch, head up and left to the summit of 1A (Class 4). Descend and head northeast to the broad shoulder between 1 and 1A. Follow the south ridge of 1 to its summit (5.8). A Class 3 ridge goes out to 1W (no record of prior ascent). Crags 2 and 3 can be climbed from the notch between them, which can be approached from either the east or west. The north ridge of Crag 2 is Class 3 or 4. The south ridge of Crag 3 is Class 5. The traverse is on great rock in a remote setting and is highly recommended. The entire traverse was first climbed by Claude Fiddler and Jim Keating in July 1991. Center Peak, Northwest Arête: Follow the prominent arête which drops into Bubbs Creek. FA by Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler, 1983 (III, 5.7). Mount Goode, North Buttress Left: This is left of the north buttress route described in the Roper guide. FA by Claude Fiddler, Vern Clevenger, 1979 (IV, 5.10). Mount Gilbert, West Face: FA by Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler, 1985 (II, 5.7). Mount Haeckel, East Arête: FA by Claude Fiddler, Leon Borowsky (III, 5.8). Wheeler Peak, North Arête: Climb from the junction of the north and northwest faces. An excellent mountaineering route. FA by Claude Fiddler, Jim Keating, 1991 (Class 4–5). Peak near Mount Ritter, Southwest Ridge: Follow the long ridge from the San Joaquin River to the summit. The first-ascent party continued over the Ritter Pinnacles to the summit of Mount Ritter, making for a long, classic climb. FA by Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler, 1984 (IV, 5.9). Minaret Traverse: This is a multi-day classic. FA by Claude Fiddler, Vern Clevenger, 1980 (VI, 5.9). Mount Lewis, East Face: Loose and not recommended. FA by Claude Fiddler, Jim Keating, 1980 (IV, 5.10). Kolp Crest Traverse: A long traverse beginning at the Kuna Crest and ending at P 11,601. FA by Claude Fiddler, Rick Cashner, 1986 (V, 5.7). Matthes Crest, Main Summit: FA by Claude Fiddler, Dieter King, 1981 (III, 5.9). Matthes Crest, North Summit, West Face: FA (?) by Alan Bartlett, Bob Bartlett, October, 1974 (II, 5.6). Cleaver Traverse: FA by Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler, 1984 (Class 5). Sawtooth Ridge Traverse via the Cleaver: FA by Claude Fiddler, Vern Clevenger, 1984 (VI, 5.9). Finger Peaks Traverse: FA by Claude Fiddler, 1989 (II, Class 4).

Bart O’Brien and Alan Bartlett

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