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North America, United States, Oregon, Razorblade Pinnacle, Mount Hood

Razorblade Pinnacle, Mount Hood. On September 29, Cindy Long and I climbed the beautiful west arête of this hidden classic in the Sandy River Basin on Mount Hood. After a 2½-hour approach, we began up a grungy but easy first pitch that was followed by an exhilarating, steep climb up the right comer of a box-shaped arête (II, 5.10b). We call it “Gillette Arête.” Wayne Wallace and I returned on October 20 and established another new route near the overhanging northwest ridge of the pinnacle. We climbed the first pitch of Gillette Arête, then down-climbed and traversed left to a notch. We nailed up slanting, thin cracks to the summit (III, 5.4, A3).

Tim Olson