American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Oregon, Mount Hood, Illumination Rock

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Mount Hood, Illumination Rock. In early August, Jim Petroske and I started up what we thought was the South Chamber Route. We ascended steep snow and ice to the base of the wall at the upper end of the chamber and directly below the South Pinnacle Notch. From a large, flat ledge at the north comer of the wall’s base we climbed two pitches to gain the notch. The first (5.7) was a crack and mantle out of an overhanging slot choked with loose rocks and grit. The second was easy but delicate climbing over big ledges of large, loose blocks. From the notch we climbed steep, crumbling rock directly toward the summit ridge’s crest, keeping on the east side of a small arête. On the crest we joined the standard route to the top.

Billy Petroske

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