St. Elias, Fairweather and Peaks in the St. Elias National Park and Glacier Bay National Park. Many expeditions made their access to the mountains which lie within these parks or near them through Yakutat. Of eight expeditions, only three were truly successful. The weather was the predominate cause of the low success rate. Yakutat received over 240 inches of precipitation in 1991 in both rain and snow. Americans Rick Holmes and Bob Branscomb attempted the south ridge of St. Elias but did not have enough time to complete the climb. Four attempts were made on Fairweather. Canadians Conrad Baumgartner, Alan Massin and Steve Bertollo made a successful five-day round-trip from the Grand Plateau Glacier up the west ridge. The splendid Canadian ascent of Fairweather and the crossing to Chilkat Inlet led by David Williams is described in another report in this Journal. Americans Joe Carriveal and Bill Mickel were turned back by the weather on the Carpé Ridge. Americans Tom Nickerson, Dave Baratt, Steve Wheeler and Mexican Vince Radice could not complete the climb on the west ridge, also because of the weather. Americans Patrick Simmons and Phil Kaufman were turned back on the south ridge of Mount Orville by rotten snow and technical difficulties. Silas Wild describes his and Sam Grubenhof’s expedition to the same region in a separate note. A successful expedition to Mount Logan in Yukon Territory was made from Yakutat. Englishmen Dean James, Mid Glamorgan, Tim Stimson, Scot Alex McNab and American Rick Wentz took 19 days to make the climb and commented that it was easier access to Logan logistically through Yakutat than through Canada. Climbers may contact the National Park Service Yakutat District Ranger Station for information on mountains and weather. The Ranger Station is open year-round and serves the Yakutat District for both Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve and Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Climbers are encouraged to submit a voluntary registration form with the Ranger Station for climbs. For forms or information, please contact National Park Service, Yakutat District Ranger Station, PO Box 137, Yakutat, Alaska 99689. Tel.: 907–784–3295.
Rick Mossman, Yakutat District Ranger