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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Thor, North Ridge, Chugach Range, Winter Ascent

Mount Thor, North Ridge, Chugach Range, Winter Ascent. Leo Americus and I spent four days skiing the 32 miles to the base of the north side of Mount Thor via the Nelchina and Sylvester Glaciers, starting on February 10. From there we made the first winter ascent of the north ridge, which rises 3750 feet from 8500 feet on the Sylvester Glacier. Thor (3734 meters, 12,251 feet) is the third highest peak of the Chugach Range. A storm moved in. A window in the multiple fronts opened on the sixth day and allowed us to climb. The first 1500 feet were a well defined ridge of blue ice and rotten snow, sometimes knife- edged, with a drop of 1000 feet or more on both sides and at a 35° to 50° angle. The ridge broadened as it met the north face, crossing a 250-yard area of crevasses. The upper 2250 feet were on good snow. We summited on February 16 after only six hours, having placed one ice screw on the lower section. We spent three days skiing 33 miles out the Powell Glacier to the south fork of the Matanuska River.

John Bauman, Unaffiliated