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North America, United States, Alaska, P6850

P 6850. There are two Bugaboo-like rock peaks that rise between the lower Kahiltna and Lacuna Glaciers, which had never been attempted. Jim Okonek flew Clay Wadman and me to a glacier landing at 4000 feet. After setting up camp, we immediately set out for a long, steep snow couloir that splits into the northern and highest of the two peaks (62°38'N, 151°29'W). Our all-night climb took us to the top of the couloir, a few pitches being of steep ice. The crux of the ascent was a series of traversing leads on the northwest face on frozen, but sometimes breakable, snow. Fortunately we were able to protect with rock pitons some of the exposed pitches here and along the narrow, technical summit ridge. The descent took the same route.

Fred Beckey