American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, P 7500+ ("Werewolf"), Anenome Buttress, Ruth Gorge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

P 7500+ (“Werewolf”), Anenome Buttress, Ruth Gorge. On July 14, Klaus Geisswinkler and I were flown by Doug Geeting to the Ruth Gorge. On the 6th and 7th, we climbed on a rock face on the west side of the gorge but had to give up the attempt because of the outbreak of a storm. Bad weather continued until July 17. Nevertheless, we started on July 9 up the southwest buttress of “Werewolf.” In ever-increasing rain, we climbed 12 pitches but had to wait for two hours on a big shoulder when it turned to snowfall. At about eight P.M., the precipitation stopped and we continued up the pillar, reaching its summit at midnight in damp cold. The 18-pitch route is mostly 5.8 to 5.10. After a two-hour rest we rappelled down the route and reached Base Camp at nine A.M. after I had fallen into a snow-covered glacial stream. Geeting was able to pick us up during a window in the clouds on July 16.

Andreas Orgler, Österreichischer Alpenverein

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.