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North America, United States, Alaska, Huntington, West Face Attempt

Huntington, West Face Attempt. In April and May, William Kito and I, both recipients of the American Alpine Club Climbing Fellowship grants, flew to the Tokositna Glacier below the west face of Huntington. Our objective was the unclimbed rock buttress immediately to the right of the Colton-Leech route. Of great help logistically and morally was the support of Rit Kellog. It took us 27 days to fix nine pitches (V, 5.9, A3) because of poor weather and snow-and-ice conditions on the face. We successfully surmounted the “bottleneck,” a 150-foot section of overhanging wall at the apex of the rock climbing. We turned back at that point. Unconsolidated snow and ice covered rocks upwards from this point for 1000 feet to where our buttress intersected the Colton-Leech route.

Clay Wadman, Unaffiliated