AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, USSR, Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy, Tien Shan

Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy, Tien Shan. This region has only recently been open to foreigners. There were three Japanese parties that climbed Khan Tengri (6995 meters, 22,950 feet): five of the Japanese Workers Mountain Federation led by K. Kondo, two of the Shinshu University Alpine Club led by M. Watanabe and two by the Gakujin Club led by H. Furuya. The summit was reached by the west ridge on July 31, August 3 and 14. Most attempts on Pik Pobedy (7439 meters, 24,407 feet) failed. Two groups of Italians apparently were in the region. One party from Aquila first climbed Khan Tengri, where they placed camps at 4300, 5200 and 6000 meters on the normal west ridge. The summit was reached by Giampaolo Gioia on August 1 and Roberto Mancini and Gianfranco Poccia on August 8. Gioia then joined seven Soviets who in seven days with six camps climbed Pik Pobedy, gaining the summit on August 11. Other Italians were given permission to attempt Pik Pobedy, but the weather prevented that. They then turned to Khan Tengri whose summit was reached on August 13 by Mauro Dell’Amico and the next day by Pierluigi Dall’Aglio.