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Asia, USSR, Pik Lenina, Second Winter Ascent

Pik Lenina, Second Winter Ascent. Our expedition was led by Lenonid A. Troshchinenko and consisted of 24 people. Deputy leader was Aleksandr Glushkovski and I was leader of the support team. After leaving Leningrad on January 13, we arrived at Achiktash on the 19th and made Advance Base the next day on the glacier at 4200 meters. We followed the Arkin route on the center of the north face. Camps I and II were placed in snow holes at 5400 and 6100 meters on January 25 and 28. Up to 6900 meters we fixed the route with 4000 meters of rope. In the upper part we climbed the left side. The summit teams were made up of 11 men each. On February 3, Aleksey Koren and Semyon Yastrebov reached the summit (7134 meters, 23,406 feet). The rest were driven back by -35° C temperatures, storm and snowfall. The next day, the weather was better and nine gained the summit: Troshchinenko, Glushkovski, Aleksey Dorfeyev, Mikhail Mozhayev, Viktor Ivanov, Andrey Tsekoyev, Avoz Mirzuyev, Aleksey Gumyenuk and Petko Totev; the latter was a guest from Bulgaria. Both teams reached Base Camp on February 6. This was the second winter ascent of Pik Lenina, but we made a variant in the upper part. The first winter ascent was in 1988 (AAJ, 1989, p. 294.)

Georgi Shchedrin, Klub Vysotnik, Leningrad, USSR