American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Shisha Pangma. An international commercial expedition organized by Hauser Excursionen and led by Yugoslav Bogdan Brakus climbed the normal northeast route on Shisha Pangma. For better acclimatization, the 16-member group first drove from Kathmandu to Lhasa and thence to Base Camp. Although the weather was bad during most of the expedition, on May 11 Swiss Reno Bernhardsgrütter reached the central (or west) summit solo but turned back from there because of the excessive snow and overhanging cornices on the connecting ridge leading to the higher main summit. The following day, May 12, German Fries and Austrian Johann Neuhauser arrived at the main summit, avoiding the central summit by means of a traverse to the left across the face and directly to the top. That same day Czech Milan Cermak and German Helmut Daum on skis made the second ascent of the 7365-meter (24,163-foot) north summit.

Xavier Eguskitza, Pyrenaica, Bilbao, Spain

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