American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Gamubar Zom Attempt, Hindu Raj

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Gamubar Zom Attempt, Hindu Raj. We attempted to climb the 6518-meter (21,385-foot) peak from the Chhelish Glacier by its south ridge in July. We were Katsutoshi Ikebe, Taizo Fukada, Naoya Yamasaki, Atsuhiko Hirota, Chiaki Inanmi, Yoshimi Shimuzu (f), Yasuko Umeno (f), Fumie Sadamitsu (f), Misako Koyanagi (f), Dr. Kenji Oku and I as leader. We established Base Camp, Advance Base and Camps I and II at 3520, 4150, 4500 and 5300 meters on July 15,17, 19 and 23. Camp II was below the col in the south ridge. On July 24, we climbed the ridge to bivouac at 5650 meters. On the 25th, we climbed steep ice to a bivouac in a col at 5900 meters. On July 26, we climbed to 6280 meters but did not have time to get to the summit.

Yoshitoyo Oishi, Fukuoka, Japan

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.