American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Schell Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Nanga Parbat, Schell Route. Our 19-member expedition included Silvo Babic, Robi Držan, Marija Frantar, Janez and Urban Golob, Steve House, Dragan Ilic, Tomo Jesenicnik, Gregor Justin, Ivan Kotnik, Željko Knez, Darinka Lecnik, Anton Pavic, Dr. Miran Rems, Jože Rozman, Leon Verdnik, Jože Zupanc, Samo Žnidaršic and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp in the Rupal Valley at 3550 meters on July 3. We established Camps I, II, III and IV at 5100, 6100, 7000 and 7500 meters. The final climb was made by Marija Frantar and Jože Rozman, who left Base Camp on July 24, got to Camp IV on the 27th but became storm-bound. They continued on July 29, crossed the ridge to the Diamir side and bivouacked twice, at 7200 and at 7500 meters. At five RM. on July 31 they stood on the summit. Three days later, they were back in Base Camp. This was the first successful ascent of the Schell route in six years. Nanga Parbat is the highest summit yet reached by a Yugoslavian woman. Marija Frantar is the seventh woman to have climbed Nanga Parbat and the first by the Schell route. She previously climbed Pik Kommunizma and Annapurna Dakshin and last winter ascended the classic route on the north face of the Eiger. Babic descended by paraglider from 6400 meters. Our American member, Steve House, climbed to 6400 meters.

Anton Golnar, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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