American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Hans Petter Aas, Ole Mentzoni, Morten Ros trup, Harold Braendshøi and I arrived at the Diamir Base Camp on July 10 after four days of dealing with 50 porters, heavy rucksacks and a hot, dry desert. After four more days, we climbed to 5300 meters in the Sigi Löw ice couloir. Too late in the day—the couloir becomes dangerous after noon—we rappelled off in a rain of stones. A few days later, we established Camp II at 6200 meters. From there we went directly to the normal Camp IV at 7200 meters on July 30 but, lacking acclimatization, returned to Base Camp. A week later, I returned to Camp IV but found the tent iced and the stove not functioning. I descended to Camp II where I met three Spaniards. I joined them. After two days of bad weather, we started for Camp IV. After eight hours of plowing in knee-deep snow, we got there. Carlos Palacio descended to Base Camp with pulmonary edema, but Carlos Soria, Pedro Manuel Nicolás and I set out the next morning, August 11, and reached the summit after 12 hours of trailbreaking up the central couloir.

Andreas Fredborg, Norsk Tindeklub

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