American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our expedition was composed of Antonio Trabado, Ramón Portilla, Pedro Miguel Sánchez, Pedro San Ramón, José Manuel Cardero, Juan María Calderón and me. We got to Base Camp on June 17 after a four-day approach. Already four expeditions were there. Before the season was over there were nine expeditions on the Diamir Face, eight of them, like us, on the 1962 German route. Because of so many climbers, we had to place our camps somewhat differently from normal. Camps I and II were both 200 meters lower, at 4600 and 6000 meters. Camp III was on a snow slope at 6800 meters. Camp IV was at 7600 meters as close to the summit pyramid as possible. Between 5000 and 7300 meters the route had been completely fixed with rope and there was even an aluminum ladder in the Kinshofer Couloir. On July 25 at 4:30 P.M. Portilla and the Japanese Masanori Sato reached the summit, having left Camp IV at 9:30 A.M. I must mention a disagreeable fact, the intolerable attitude of the Koreans in regard to garbage. They left Camp I a veritable garbage dump with cans, packages, gas cartridges, empty boxes. They paid no attention to our complaints.

José María González López, Spain

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