American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Nanga Parbat. Our expedition was composed of Hitoshi Tamada, Masanori Sato and me as leader and Base Camp Manager Miss Kyoko Miyoshi. Our route was the 1962 German route on the Diamir Face. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and IV at 3900, 5200, 6200, 6800 and 7300 meters on June 12, 17, 25, July 1 and 8. From Camp I to 7000 meters ropes had been fixed by the Yugoslavs and so we did not need to prepare the route. The first summit attempt failed at 7900 meters because of bad weather. We bivouacked at 7700 meters, where Tamada got frostbitten; he had to return to Japan. On July 20, Sato, Ramón Portilla from a Spanish party and I climbed from Base Camp to Camp II and on July 23 to Camp IV. On July 24, we three set out for the top, but only Sato and Portilla made it to the summit. We were back in Base Camp on the 25th.

(Miss) Taeko Nagao, Japan

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