American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Slavko Cankar, Smiljan Smodiš, Brane Povše, Uroš Rupar, Stojan Burnik, Matjaž Feraric, Iztok Ivakic, Bojan Krajnc, Miran Meved, Miro Pogocar, Stojan Rampe, Matjaž Slapnik, Aleš Stopar, Robi Supin, Mijo Zorko and me as leader. We attempted the German route on the Diamir Face. We established Base Camp and Camps I, II and III at 4200, 5100, 6200 and 6800 meters on May 23, 24, 31 and June 13. Being the first expedition this year, we fixed the rope used by all, some 2200 meters in all. From June 19 to 22, our member Uroš Rupar and Poles Jacek Fluder and Mariusz Kups made a summit attempt. The Poles had come with Dr. Herrligkoffer’s expedition but were climbing separately. They had hoped to do the Mummery Rib but found it too dangerous. They then joined us. There was a meter of new snow between 7000 and 7600 meters. They were involved in an avalanche at 7700 meters and quit. On June 24 there was a big storm. High water destroyed all the bridges and a rock avalanche nearly buried the Bulgarian Base Camp. This caused us problems during our return trip.

Bojan Šrot, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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