American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Bularung Sar, Hispar Mustagh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

BularungSar, HisparMustagh. Bularung Sar (7200 meters, 23,622 feet) lies between Disteghil Sar and Trivor. Although both of those summits had been reached, the first ascent of the impressive peak rising between them waited until 1990. Unfortunately I had to leave the expedition early and was replaced as leader by Heinz Hügli. Starting from Gilgit, we traveled by jeep through Hunza to Huru, a small meadow in the Hispar valley. From there, a four-or five-day walk leads up the Hispar and Kunyang Glaciers. On the trek to Base Camp, we could see Bularung’s avalanche-swept faces, but the south ridge represented a safe line of ascent. There is a rise of nearly 3000 meters, mostly of technical character. The lower part is mixed ice and rock. There is difficult rock climbing, especially a 200-meter-high granite tower. The upper part is primarily steep ice ridges and faces. The crux is a hanging glacier right on the ridge, which was climbed directly on difficult vertical ice. The final summit ridge is first heavily corniced and then broad and easy. We reached Base Camp at 4300 meters on June 18. We placed Camps I, II, III and IV at 5000, 5700, 6100 and 6600 meters. Ropes were fixed from Camp I to Camp IV. After reconnaissance, the climb began on June 24 and lasted for a month. On July 25, Thierry Bionda, Christian Meillard and Gérard Vouga reached the summit. On July 27, they were followed by Jacques Aymon, Vincent von Kaenel and Dr. Lothar Matter, while on July 28, Hügli, Carole Milz and Jean-Jacques Sauvain got to the top. Carole Milz was the only woman in the expedition.

Alain Vaucher, Club Alpin Suisse

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