American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Great Trango Tower Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Great Trango Tower Attempt. Under the leadership of Antonio Perezgrueso of Spanish Television, Fernando Cobo, Jon Lazcano, Guillermo Banales and Máximo Murcia came to within three or four rope-lengths of completing a new and difficult route on the southwest buttress of the Great Trango Tower. In June, they installed Base Camp on the Trango Glacier. They had originally hoped to film an ascent of the Uli Biaho Tower but decided the approach was too dangerous. In 21 days, they had fixed the route with rope on most of 61 pitches and established four camps on the wall. After establishing Camp IV at the foot of the final wall on July 8, in the next two days they pushed the route higher on rock of UIAA VI, A2 difficulty. They descended to their hammocks, hoping to complete the route the next day. That night, a severe storm moved in. They were trapped hanging to the wall for two days before they were able to descend and abandon the attempt. [We are grateful to Señor Perezgrueso for this information. —Editor. ]

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