American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Trinity Peak Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Trinity Peak Attempt. Trinity Peak (c. 6800 meters, 22,310 feet) lies at the head of the Chogolisa Glacier, three days’ walk from the roadhead village of Hushe. We had hoped to climb the dramatic central spur of the southeast face. The vertical rise from the foot of the face is 1800 meters. We were Mark Miller, Colin Jamieson, Kevin Murphy, Duncan Talbert. Graham Lipp, Ronnie Robb and I as leader. We established Base Camp and Advance Base at 4300 and 4700 meters on August 30 and September 7. Miller and I were carrying loads above Advance Base to the left of a rognon where we were involved in a sérac fall. While getting out of the way, I fell and dislocated my shoulder and sprained my ankle. The others found a safe route to the right of the rognon, fixed rope and on September 10 established Camp I at 5200 meters. Miller and Jamieson climbed to a 6000-meter subsidiary point on the ridge on the 12th. Alpine-style attempts on September 19 and 24 failed in bad weather. On the 26th, the mountain was abandoned and camps stripped since winter seemed to have set in.

Victor Radvils, England

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