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Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II

Gasherbrum II. Our group was composed of Chileans Luis GarcĂ­a, Fernando Luchsinger, Italo Valle and me as leader. Our objective was the normal route on Gasherbrum II. After delays caused by the Pakistani customs, we finally arrived at Base Camp on the Abruzzi Glacier on July 13. Tons of garbage at the usual site

forced us to set up our Base Camp at 5280 meters. After three carries, on July 25 we set up Camp I in a spectacular spot at the foot of the southwest ridge. On July 27, we made a second carry to Camp II and established it at 6550 meters. That same night at eleven P.M., we continued on, rested three hours at 7000 meters and reached 7400 meters by noon. Skeletons of tents and garbage marked Camp III. The weather looked doubtful that afternoon and on the 29th, but at seven A.M. on July 30, we plowed through deep snow to the summit pyramid. The wind rose to hurricane force. Valle turned back. At five P.M., we three reached the summit. We were back in camp, having descended in four moonlit hours. The next day, July 31, Valle climbed to the top, getting there at five P.M. He joined us in Base Camp on August 1.

Maurico Purto, M.D., Chilean Section of the Club Alpino Italiano