American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Gasherbrum II. A 12-member international expedition was led by Pole Marek Grochowski. There were six Poles, three Germans, an American, an Austrian and a South Tirolean. They had planned to climb a partially new route from the Gasherbrum La but found the conditions so dangerous that they had to switch to the normal Austrian route. They established Camps I, II and III at 5900, 6400 and 7400 meters on July 21, 23 and July 1. During the first summit try on July 2, Poles Józef Gozdzik, Marek Józefiak, Leszek Sikora, American Raymond D. Caughron, Germans Kurt Lyncke-Krüger and Peter Brill were halted just 20 meters short of the top by an extremely dangerous cornice. Two more attempts failed. On July 18, German Georg Rüdiger Lang made it to the top, establishing what was either a new route from Camp III in the center of the northwest side of the summit cone or a repeat of the Onyszkiewicz route. Because of the cold, he suffered frostbite and was helicoptered from Base Camp by the Pakistanis. On July 19, Pole Piotr Pustelnik reached the summit by the Moravec (Austrian) route, avoiding the summit cornice by a short traverse just beneath the top.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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