American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Gasherbrum I. Our expedition was composed of Kim Byong-Man, Song Yul-Heoun, Ryu Sung-tae, Yoon Sang-Ho, Park Hyeok-Sang, Cha Yong-Suk, Lee Suk-Gyu, Yoon Suk-Min, Park Myun-Gu, Ju Chung-Ick and me as leader. From June 4 to 30, the weather was good and we set up Camps I and II at 5950 and 6400 meters on June 20 and 22. There were many fixed ropes in the Japanese couloir and we fixed 200 meters more in the upper couloir. We made three unsuccessful summit attempts from Camp II, which failed in bad weather. On July 14, two members left Base Camp to spend the night in Camp II. They climbed to a bivouac at 7300 meters the next day and on July 16 Park got to the summit with the Polish women. The other had to turn back at 7800 meters.

Yoon Keon-Jung, M.D., Daejeon, Korea

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