AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, India—Garhwal, Swargarohini I

Swargarohini I. This small but difficult peak has been attracting mountaineers for decades. J.T.M. Gibson and other parties attempted it from many sides. Eight mountaineering instructors from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering climbed the virgin peak on a training course. They made Base Camp at 4300 meters in the upper Ruinsara valley on April 25. Advance Base at 5000 meters was on the way to the eastern col and was stocked by trainees. Challenging rock climbing on a steep wall followed. They had hoped to locate Camp I on the eastern col, but lack of time prevented that and the trainees were sent down. Leader Squadron Leader A.K. Singh, Major A.S. Sandhu, Sonam Sangbu, Rattan Singh Chauhan, Ranveer Singh Negi, Chewang Norbu and Surat Singh Chauhan started for the summit from Advance Base on May 3. They climbed the rock wall with the help of ropes fixed earlier, reaching the col at ten A.M. The slope eased above the col, where they climbed a series of snow plateaus. They reached the summit (6252 meters, 20,512 feet) at 2:10 RM.

Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club