American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, Rock Tower, Kedarnath

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Rock Tower, Kedarnath. On August 27, Stefano Righetti and Maurizio Giordani got to the summit of the Rock Tower, a granite pillar of 6150 meters (20,177 feet), which lies south of Kedarnath Peak. It was attempted in 1989 by Righetti, GianCarlo Grassi and me. In 1990, Righetti, Giordani and Rosanna Manfrini left Base Camp at 4000 meters above the town of Kedarnath on August 25 for the final attack. They bivouacked at 5650 meters, where Rosanna had to stop because of health problems. After a second bivouac at 6000 meters without tent or sleeping bags in –25° C temperature, the two climbed the last 150 meters to the top. They climbed 1000 vertical meters in 24 pitches on the south ridge, which starts at 5150 meters above a long rock-and-snow black spur, which they climbed unroped. On the wall the climbing was continuously difficult (UIAA VI + to VII+) and near the top there were ten meters of A2, which they equipped with bolts. Otherwise, only belay stances were equipped and stoppers and Friends were used. No pitons or fixed rope were left.

Roberta Vittorangeli, Club Alpino Italiano

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