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Asia, India—Garhwal, Bhagirathi II, 1989 and 1990

Bhagirathi II, 1989 and 1990. I have led two commercial expeditions to Bhagirathi II. We were successful in getting four clients and two guides to the summit in 1989 but bad conditions stopped our 1990 attempt at 6200 meters. Both times we climbed via the east face. Base Camp was at Nandanban at 4800 meters and High Camp on the right edge of the snow slope at 5900 meters. In 1989, the snow was down to 5000 meters and progress in deep snow was difficult, especially on a few 60° pitches. The route from High Camp went directly up the right side of the snow slope to reach the rock band, which runs diagonally left toward the summit. In 1989, we established High Camp on September 22 and on the 29th Terry Ralphs, Dick Pöttinger, John Starbruck, Alastair Duff, Dave Cooper and I reached the summit. In 1990, we established High Camp on September 14 and made our unsuccessful summit attempt on the 17th. It was warm and it never froze. We stopped before reaching the rock band because of rockfall and falling ice. Because of the lack of snow, we had to belay on hard ice where we had moved together the year before.

Stuart Miller, Karakoram Experience, England