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Asia, India—Garhwal, Kagbhusband

Kagbhusand. A seven-member team sponsored by the Himalayan Club and led by Divyesh Muni climbed Kagbhusand (5830 meters, 19,128 feet). Base camp was placed on September 12 at 4000 meters between Thur Udiar and Eri Udiar in the Amrit Ganga valley. Advance Base at 4700 meters was established on the 17th at the tongue of a minor glacier descending from the Banke plateau. Camp I was occupied on the 22nd on the medial moraine of the Deoban Glacier on the Banke plateau. The route to the summit started up the northeast ridge and traversed to intersect the south ridge. The team then had to rappel off the west face, traverse north and climb the north ridge to the top. E. Theophilus, Depinder Kaput and Divyesh Muni reached the summit at five P.M. after ten hours of climbing. Most of the route was done in rock-climbing shoes. The rating by British standards was mostly VS and HVS with one pitch of A1. Eric Shipton climbed the peak in 1931 and the Indo-Tibetan Border Police in 1971. This was the third ascent.

Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club