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Asia, Nepal, Langtang Lirung Attempt and Ganja La Chuli Ascent

Langtang Lirung Attempt and Ganja La Chuli Ascent. Our expedition consisted of Marc Chauvin, Henry Kendall, Jeff Pheasant, Nick Yardley, Jeannette Helfrich, Chris Hurtibise, Henry Kohn, Peter Gamache, Dr. Ian Wedmore, Bill and Mike Yeo, Sam Doherty, Jennifer Stephens, Jim Driver, Dave Walters, Ajax Greene, Jim Balog, Mike Dube, Judy Grossman and me as leader. Base Camp was placed at 4270 meters on the west side of the Lirung Glacier. Starting in the first week of April, we placed two camps on the north slopes of Ganja La Chuli (5844 meters, 19,173 feet). The route was made more difficult by winter snow that lay as low as 3300 meters. On April 9, the whole team climbed the north ridge to the summit, except for Kohn who stopped at 5000 meters. We then placed Camp I at 4875 meters on the west side of the Lining Glacier below the southeast ridge of Langtang Lirung and Camp II at 5500 meters on the ridge. Doherty and Chauvin reached 5670 meters on the southeast ridge on April 17. We realized we had underestimated the necessary time. From 5500 meters to 6400 meters there was sustained rock climbing on good granite. From there to the 7225-meter summit there was a narrow ice ridge with sustained difficulties. It is an excellent route for experienced climbers who can move fast on hard rock, ice and mixed terrain at high altitude. I should allow six weeks for this safe route.

Richard Wilcox