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Asia, Nepal, Kangchung, 1989

Kangchung, 1989. In April and May, 1989, Caroline Albright, David Kennison, Paul Gardner, Donald Cook, Bob Chereck, John Landers, David Landers and I made several climbs in the Everest region. A warm-up climb was made to the highest point of P 5483 (17,990 feet), which lies northwest of Goyko. The final summit includes very exposed rock climbing on the north face. A few days later, the main goal of the west peak of Kangchung (6036 meters, 19,804) was reached. (The name Kangchung is apparently unofficial, but it appears on the Royal Geographical Society and the Erwin Schneider maps of the region—Editor.) This mountain mass is made up of two separate ice peaks 12.5 miles due west of Everest. The approach was made from the Ngozumpa Glacier past the bottom of the west side of South Chulu Pass and then north-northwest towards the peak to the permanent snowline, where high camp was made. From there the route included a direct ascent of the east face ending with 1700 feet of smooth steep ice. Upon reaching the high point, we followed an exposed knife-edged ridge for about ? mile to the final summit.

Roger Fuehrer, Colorado Mountain Club