American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Pumori Ascents and Attempts in the Autumn

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Pumori Ascents and Attempts in the Autumn. Pumori (7161 meters, 23,494 feet) was the scene of many expeditions in the post-monsoon season. Two Spanish parties made the 48th ascent of the peak together, climbing the southeast face to the northeast ridge on September 29. Ricard Dalmau, Ernest Blade and Albert Castellet of one group and brothers Alberto and Félix Iñurrategui of the other reached the summit. Germans led by Fritz Zintl did the same route: Zintl, Walter Hoelzler and Frau Angela Zintl on October 9 and Germans Donner and Gerhard Staiger on October 11. Mario Dibona had six Italians in his party. They tried the south ridge unsuccessfully on October 10, getting to 6500 meters. On October 14, Dibona, Enrico and Franco Bellodis, Luca Dapoz, Marco Da Pozzo and Massimo Da Pozza got to the summit via the south ridge and southeast face. Andy Perkins was the leader of seven Britons and an American. On October 25, Perkins and Christopher Smith climbed the south ridge to the top. On the 26th, Henry Todd and their American member, George Rooney, got to the summit via the southeast face to the northeast ridge. Frenchman Philippe Grenier led Louis Brigaudeau, Mme Chantai Quennesson and Chunga Temba Sherpa up the same route on November 1. Another French expedition was led by Jean-Pierre Frachon. By the same route they placed the following on the summit: Didier Cour, Jean-Pierre Gadel, Jérome Latrubesse on November 2; Giles Buisson, Joel Jacq, Patrick Jouannet, Mlle Jeanne Chapus, Jean François Durazzo, Kami Sherpa on November 3; Mme Daine Prouvst and Thierry Coupez on November 7. On November 3, Frachon and Thele Sherpa completed the south ridge. On November 12, Pole Aleksander Lwow made the fourth solo ascent, climbing the southeast face and northeast ridge. He did not have permission to climb. He made his ascent in nine hours up and down from a bivouac at the foot of the route. Italians led by Giuseppe Castelnuovo failed on the southeast ridge at 6150 meters on September 15 and Japanese under the leadership of Kiyoshi Ishii failed on the southeast face at 6200 meters on October 17.

Elizabeth Hawley

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