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Asia, Nepal, Everest Southwest Face Attempt

Everest Southwest Face Attempt. After grave porter problems at Jiri, on August 24 we set up Base Camp. We cooperated with the Korean-Japanese expedition in preparing the route through the icefall and set up Camps I and II in the Western Cwm at 5900 and 6500 meters on September 1 and 6. On September 8 and 16, we set up on the southwest face Camps III and IV at 7000 and 7700 meters, the latter at the foot of the rock band. Because storms damaged this camp and altitude problems of several members, we did not get above the rock band until October 7, where Paco Txabarri and Iosu Bereziartua did the principal work. On October 8, Juan Oiarzabal, Mari Abrego, Josema Casimiro and I ascended to Camp IV and on the 9th climbed to 8300 meters where we hoped to set up Camp V, but persistent strong winds made us abandon the attempt. On October 15, we left Base Camp. We used no artificial oxygen. The other members of the group were Paco Iriarte, Adolfo Madinabeita, Jesús Gómez, Felipe Uriarte and Dr. Ramón Garate.

José Luis Zuloaga, Basque Mountaineering Federation, Spain