American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Everest, West Ridge Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Everest, West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Miss Ursula Huber, Richi Ott, Werner Steiniger, Thomas Pfenniger, Robert Bosch and me as leader. We set up Base Camp at 5300 meters on March 28. From March 30 to April 11, we fixed rope to the Lho La. The route had UIAA difficulties up to VI; we could have climbed on easier terrain but the rock was too rotten. After installing Camp I at 6100 meters on April 12, we climbed a 70° ice couloir to place Camp II on April 20 at 6850 meters. The next day we reconnoitered to 7250 meters. After a rest in Base Camp, we all started on what was to be an alpine-style attempt from Camp II but were driven back at 6550 meters. The weather stayed bad until May 5. We started a second attempt on May 7. The snow was deep and avalanche-threatening. Finally, only Ott and I were continuing. We set up a tent at 7250 meters and on May 10 pushed on to 7500 meters, but the deep snow and avalanche danger were too great. We retreated to Base Camp. Glenn Porzak, leader of the American expedition, invited us onto the normal route. After a rapid ascent, Bosch and I had to give up at 8200 meters because of numb feet and toes. We left Base Camp on May 20.

Beda Fuster, Schweizer Alpen Club

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