American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Antarctica, Vinson Massif, East Ridge, 1989

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1991

Vinson Massif, East Ridge, 1989. Chileans Arturo Fernandois, Fernando Luchsinger, Jaime Roca, Italo Valle and I as leader were flown from Punta Arenas by the Chilean Air Force to its base on Isla Rey Jorge and only 21 days later, because of bad weather, to another base on Isla Adelaida. On November 20, 1989, two small planes flew us to the base of the Ellsworth Mountains. The planes returned for us a week later. From our Base Camp at 2400 meters, on skis we pulled sleds toward an icefall that descends from the Vinson-Shinn col and to a camp at 3100 meters. We then climbed the icefall and placed Camp II at 3660 meters in the col itself. On November 24, we set out for the summit of Vinson, heading up a high plateau on the east flank. Only the last part was at all steep (45°). At 1:20 A.M. on November 25, 1989, we all reached the summit. The east route was a new variant since the south side is the normal one. We descended to Base and on the 27th were picked up by the planes. The expedition took 40 days in all.

Mauricio Purto, AAC and Chilean Section of Club Alpino Italiano

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